An Age of Discipline: A Look into Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2022 Show
Daniel Roseberry’s first ever runway show reminded us what true avant-garde couture should be.
Paris Fashion Week marked a bold return to the world of haute couture following a two-year hiatus from the catwalk. Standing alongside the titans of the fashion world, Maison Schiaparelli’s Creative Director, Daniel Roseberry, has cemented himself as one of the greatest designers of the decade, with his Schiaparelli Spring/Summer collection being a career defining moment. There was no better location to debut this stunning collection than Le Petit Palais, Paris’ museum of Fine Arts, as each look was a celestial work of art in itself. Embodying a cosmic and ethereal simplicity, Roseberry’s collection used its limited colour scheme (black, white and Schiaparelli’s iconic gold) to create an enchanting display of interstellar couture that was far from simple.
The collection moved seamlessly between science fiction and mythology, with orbital gowns and Medusa-inspired regalia taking centre stage. The intricate gold details varied from geometric rings, to wispy plumes, to organic castings – evocative of the strange, unconstrained sculptures created by pouring liquid aluminium into anthills. There is something otherworldly, yet still grounded, about this collection; which begs to question whether infinite space may exist in our own world, as well as our universe.
The excitement from Roseberry’s collection went beyond the runway, with Schiaparelli being the couture designer of choice for actress and model Julia Fox. During her whirlwind (yet short-lived) romance with West, Fox was Paris fashion week’s “it-girl” – serving daring and outstanding conical-breast looks right off of Roseberry’s roster.
One that will immortalise Schiaparelli in popular memory is Fox’s all-denim ensemble; evocative of Britney Spears’ and Justin Timberlake’s Y2K-defining denim look at the 2001 AMA Red Carpet. Fox also opted for all-leather attire to attend the Schiaparelli runway show.
Paired with her iconic extreme smoky eye (a makeup choice so noteworthy that it even received its own TikTok filter), the outfit allowed a glimpse into Schiaparelli’s other-worldly sci-fi motif, inspired by films such as The Matrix and Interstellar. With so much of her wardrobe dedicated to the avant-garde, it is clear that Fox’s love for Schiaparelli is not fading anytime soon, and neither is ours.