Thigh-high wool socks, tweed coats, low-heeled slingbacks: the Chanel fashion show opened the last day of Paris Fashion Week, taking us back to the Sixties.

Viriginie Viard, the creative director of Chanel who replaced Karl Lagerfeld, celebrates the freshness of adolescence and a taste for discovery. Chanel’s models are eternal girls with barrettes on their hair and colored stockings, but who love rummaging through the closet of aunts and grandmothers reworking classic pieces in their own way: the colored cardigan is worn with the miniskirt, the tweed suit goes with the rain boots and the sheath dress is reborn in leather.

The Fall/Winter 2022-2023 Collection

The absolute protagonist of next winter will be tweed – so dear to Mademoiselle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld – but in a “country” version: Virginie Viard combines fitted coats and the classic suit with country rubber boots with maxi logo, black or in the classic green military. The Chanel girls wear Parisian stockings, synonymous with sensuality, but of thick and colorful wool, combined with pointed slingbacks.

Leather appears in the winter collection, reviving the iconic sheath dress in more daring and contemporary versions. Leather pants also pop up under blazers and maxi cardigans. Bags are also dressed in tweed, with colorful patchwork-effect models worn over the shoulder.

The goal, unquestionably, is to win over the youngest customers, but the lines and the general mood of the show remain faithful to the Chanel archetype of the chic Parisian lady.