Italian fashion group OTB, led by Renzo Rosso, is expressing its ambitions to establish a fashion and luxury hub in Italy. The group is currently evaluating acquisition opportunities in the market, with rumors suggesting its interest in acquiring Jil Sander. Jil Sander, owned by Japanese group Onward, is reportedly in exclusive negotiations with OTB for a potential sale. While OTB has not officially confirmed this, the group has stated its intention to closely monitor market opportunities and increase its critical mass in a modern and sustainable manner.

This interest in expansion comes at a time when the Italian market is seeing a wave of acquisitions. Moncler recently acquired Stone Island, and Exor, the holding company of the Agnelli family, acquired Hermès’s Chinese label Shang Xia. OTB is well-positioned to carry out an acquisition, having received a €50 million loan from the state-controlled investment bank Cassa Depositi e Prestiti (CDP) to support its expansion plans. The group has also made strategic investments in the past, including acquiring a minority stake in luxury denim label Amiri and increasing its stake in Viktor & Rolf.

OTB, known for its brands such as Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, and Viktor & Rolf, also owns Brave Kid, specializing in childrenswear, and Staff International, which produces and distributes Marni and Margiela, as well as various licensed labels. After facing challenges in previous years, OTB has experienced a resurgence and is now on a growth trajectory. In 2019, it ranked as the fourth-largest Italian fashion group, reporting a revenue of €1.540 billion, a 6.4% increase from the previous year, and an EBITDA of €190 million. As of December 31, 2019, its net cash position was €124 million.

OTB’s interest in acquiring Jil Sander and its overall expansion plans highlight its commitment to strengthening the fashion supply chain in Italy and supporting the Made-in-Italy fashion industry. The group aims to increase its presence in the market while staying true to its founder’s strategic vision. With its financial backing, successful brands, and growth potential, OTB is well-positioned to play a significant role in the future of the Italian fashion industry.

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