For his Spring/Summer 2024 show at London Fashion Week, Jonathan Anderson returned to the Roundhouse in Camden with a collection that, as he explained, “redefined a type of wardrobe.” The event kicked off with a playful twist as Anderson sent guests a long extrusion of blue playdough as their runway show invitation. This unconventional choice set the stage for what would be an extraordinary fashion display.

The show opened with models strutting down the catwalk in hunching hoodies and shorts, giving the impression that these garments had been molded by hand from plasticine. It was a striking departure from the norm, and Anderson’s penchant for sculptural silhouettes was evident. This wasn’t the first time he had ventured into the realm of unconventional designs; in the previous season, he had wowed audiences with a reflective bubble dress inspired by a car wing mirror, an exploration of power and tech in an artistic way. Anderson was, in his own words, “redefining a type of wardrobe,” taking the ubiquitous hoodie and elevating it to something truly experimental.

However, the show wasn’t just about whimsy and experimentation; it was also a celebration of breaking boundaries. In the previous season, Anderson had focused on delving into the design DNA of his archive. Still, for SS24, he shifted his focus away from modernity and minimalism, aiming to discover a newness that would captivate the fashion world. Classic MA1 bomber jackets were blown up to voluminous proportions, with feathers protruding from armholes and zippers, turning them into bold statement pieces. Simple T-shirts and trousers were reimagined in a shiny padded fabric reminiscent of colorful plastic bags, pushing the boundaries of conventional materials. Spaghetti strap summer dresses and loafers were transformed into “total knit looks,” featuring tactile weaves that added depth and texture to the collection.

One of the standout features of the SS24 show was Anderson’s clever remix of the age-old fashion formula: pairing a party-ready top with something more casual. In this case, he paired thin ice-blue hoodies with skirts crisscrossed with rhinestones, creating a dynamic and attention-grabbing juxtaposition.

Throughout the show, Anderson drew inspiration from the idea of driving with the windows down on a summer holiday, enjoying your favorite playlist. The euphoric dance soundtrack reached its peak with a remix of Cher’s iconic hit, “Believe.” While there were extravagant pieces like the XL MA1 jackets adorned with feathers and crystal-encrusted skirts, Anderson also featured silhouettes that felt “familiar” and “grounding.” These were the kinds of outfits you might choose for your journey home from the airport: cargo pants, leather jackets, vest tops, and Anderson’s signature trench coats.

Amidst a summer that saw the rise of non-shoe shoes, particularly The Row’s Ginza sandal, Anderson surprised fashion enthusiasts by heralding the return of the fisherman’s sandal. These pared-back, comfortable sandals are poised to become a must-have for the next summer season, and fashion icons like Hailey Bieber, known for her affinity for JW Anderson’s designs, will likely embrace them, perhaps paired with her favorite white socks.

In conclusion, Jonathan Anderson’s SS24 show was a testament to his innovative spirit and ability to push the boundaries of fashion. By redefining wardrobe staples, experimenting with materials, and embracing unexpected inspirations, he left a lasting impression on the fashion world. As we eagerly anticipate the trends of the upcoming season, it’s clear that Anderson’s unique vision will continue to influence the industry, proving that fashion is about breaking free from the ordinary and embracing the extraordinary.

Designer: Jonathan Anderson

Fashion Editor/Stylist: Benjamin Bruno

Hair Stylist: Anthony Turner

Makeup Artist: Lynsey Alexander

Casting Director: Ashley Brokaw

Models: Agel AkolAlaato JazyperAlice McgrathAn DeseynAnipha UmufiteAnnie ArnanderAnyier AneiBebe ParnellBella DreibrodtCanlan WangDana SmithEdna KaribwamiEliise JaasmaElla MccutcheonEm VerleunFlorence TaylorFreya NutterGesa PassmannHaojie QiHuijia ChenIo SekineJacey PhilanaJennifer MatiasLizzy KolawoleManyuan LiangMartina BergaminiMerel RoggeveenMiao ZiyiMinnie HadleyMona TougaardNiki AbankwaNoemie SchaepelynckQianxia YeRenee DoesSara CaballeroSara ZackovaSaunders Sophia EnggaardSunira Da SilvaTori Mclelland