Jonathan Anderson, as is his custom, has once again collaborated with an artist to create the visual narrative for his Loewe fashion shows and to draw inspiration from their unique perspectives. Just a few days ago, he joined forces with the painter Christiane Kubrick for his JW Anderson collection for the autumn-winter 2024-2025 season. However, today, he unveils an exciting partnership with the American artist Richard Hawkins.
Infused with the electrifying colors found in Hawkins’ canvases and the iconic male figures from pop culture that inhabit them, the Irish designer translates these artistic motifs onto his clothing, effectively transforming them into dynamic pieces of wearable art. From jewelry to printed patterns on bomber jackets, from long knitted dresses to embroidered details on the Squeeze and Puzzle Fold bags, these resplendent pieces echo the paintings gracefully suspended on the gallery-like walls.
Embedded within the prevailing “grandpa core” trend, which has been a prominent feature at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, knitwear takes center stage in the Loewe autumn-winter 2024-2025 collection. Drawing inspiration from Richard Hawkins’ artistry, traditional jacquard patterns are reimagined, and monochromatic variations in shades of green, brown, gray, and burgundy offer both coziness and elegance. This style reminiscent of the singer Harry Styles, who has become renowned for his iconic sweaters over the years (including the initiation of a TikTok trend with one of his cardigans in 2020).
The classic leather coat, a timeless staple in men’s fashion, undergoes a metamorphosis under Jonathan Anderson’s creative direction. It is reimagined as an elongated sweatshirt featuring kangaroo pockets and hoods, or as a vibrant green or striking red leather trench coat embellished with a generous lavallière bow, obviating the need for a scarf. Not to be overlooked are the oversized black Matrix-style coats. Irrespective of the attire beneath, such a garment elevates any ensemble into a cutting-edge fashion statement.
A mere week ago, Gucci introduced the Milan Fashion Week with their take on slim, scarf-like ties. Loewe, however, reinterprets another classic element of men’s fashion: the lavallière collar. Previously less visible in recent women’s fashion and notably absent from couture collections, it is given a fresh perspective here as an oversized adornment. The lavallière graces the collars of leather coats, mohair sweaters, denim shirts, and even accents the hemlines of skirts.
In tune with the vibrant, colorful aesthetics reminiscent of the eighties and nineties in Richard Hawkins’ artworks, the Loewe autumn-winter 2024-2025 collection channels a late 20th-century trend: sportswear. While this style has been a pervasive influence in fashion for several decades, it resonates uniquely in this collection. It manifests not only in oversized suits that hang loosely, resembling tracksuits without traditional hems but also in more literal interpretations such as leather hoodies and joggers. The former can stand alone as dresses, while the latter can be paired with formal shirts for a remarkable and unexpected fashion statement.
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Designer: Jonathan Anderson
Fashion Editor/Stylist: Benjamin Bruno
Hair Stylist: Anthony Turner
Makeup Artist: Lynsey Alexander
Casting Director: Ashley Brokaw
Manicurist: Ama Quashie
Publicist: Lucien Pagès
Models: Alvar af Schultén, Antoine Brabant, Awwal Adeoti, Ayomide Onasanya, Bai , Bruno Krahl, Daniel Legzdins, Eddy Earl, Elliott Raven Mcdean, Eric Francis, Etienne Maclaine, Franek Poremba, Frans Croon, Hotaka Maeno, Indy van Opstal, Joseph Uyttenhove, Lars Post, Luukas Niskanen, Maurice Howard, Mekhi Thompson, Ned Sims, Nicola Macchi, Nicolo Sala, Nonso Ojukwu, Pierrick Grégoire, Samuel Luis Mueller, Seungmin We, Vasko Luyckx, Zaram Obasi