Molly Goddard, known for her avant-garde creations, presented a captivating Spring/Summer 2024 collection at Christie’s auction house. This season, she embarked on a journey that challenged her previous work, aiming to create a look that was more undone and exposed. Her inspiration drew from traditional lingerie techniques and vintage bedding, resulting in a showcase that defied conventional fashion norms. Here, we delve deeper into the standout elements of this groundbreaking collection.

Molly Goddard embraced a creative challenge for SS24, departing from her signature oversized tulle dresses to explore a new realm of fashion. The silhouettes she introduced felt intentionally deconstructed, as if the garments had been turned inside out to reveal details typically hidden within clothing or undergarments. Dresses boasted daringly low-cut backs, proudly exposing built-in bra straps with cotton elegantly gathered over elastic. Many pieces intentionally carried an unfinished aesthetic, featuring exposed metal zips and glimpses of grosgrain on the bindings. The collection also paid homage to underskirts and traditional christening dresses, with dense white frills playfully peeking out from blazers, short shorts, and unexpected corners of the attire.

This season’s prevalent trend of underwear-as-outerwear found its zenith at Molly Goddard’s show. The designer delved deep into the realm of undergarments, drawing inspiration from Victorian nightwear, vintage ’50s lingerie, and the cozy world of old-fashioned bedding. However, it was the gathered and ruched black and cream cotton bra tops that truly stole the spotlight. These bra tops were the most explicit interpretation of lingerie dressing, adding a unique layer to the collection’s narrative. Sheer triangular bra tops subtly peeked from beneath half-buttoned cardigans, while backless dresses ingeniously revealed bra tops adorned with ruched cotton straps. Molly Goddard’s fascination with the techniques used in traditional, handmade underwear transcended to her cardigans, which featured intricate bra-like details upon closer examination.

The collection exuded a strong sense of nostalgia, with lavender and lemon cardigans adorned with satin trims that evoked memories of vintage bedding commonly found in grandparents’ homes or antique shops. These pieces masterfully blended style with a comforting sense of familiarity, creating a unique emotional resonance. The theme of bedding was artfully extended to quilted handbags designed to resemble pillows, introducing a delightful touch of whimsy to the overall ensemble.

Uniformity characterized the models’ hair and makeup, with fresh, clean skin meticulously crafted by makeup artist Emma Lewisham. A fascinating twist was introduced in the form of “winges” (wig fringes) as accessories. These “winges” came with black flowing ribbons, serving as distinctive and unconventional additions to the ensemble. This innovative approach perfectly complemented the collection’s theme of revealing and reimagining.

Molly Goddard, known for her ability to seamlessly blend practicality with avant-garde sensibility, took a unique approach to the trending commuter shoe style. She injected a sporty element into her collection, making even the grandest tulle dresses appear suitable for everyday life. Her sneaker-inspired ballet pumps featured trainer-like detailing on the leather, complete with crisscross laces across the front. It was a nod to her London sensibility, where fashion effortlessly converges with function.

Molly Goddard’s SS24 collection was a daring exploration of undone elegance and lingerie-inspired couture. With her playful mix of deconstructed silhouettes, exposed undergarment details, and nostalgic nods to vintage bedding, Goddard boldly challenged conventional fashion boundaries. Her ability to blur the lines between underwear and outerwear while maintaining a sense of comfort and style reaffirmed her status as a trailblazing designer. As fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipate the arrival of her designs in stores, it’s undeniable that Molly Goddard’s artistic vision will continue to influence and inspire the industry, encouraging us all to embrace both the unconventional and the classic in our style choices.