The enigmatic teasers circulating on social media had ignited anticipation, dropping hints of something truly extraordinary on the horizon. Among them, a lobster, meticulously crafted in gleaming hammered brass, gracefully perched atop a black velvet bustier. This surreal sight stood in stark contrast to a flowing draped skirt. It was a captivating entrance into another reimagined creation pulled from the extensive and artistic archives of Madame Schiaparelli. This time, it bore the unmistakable touch of Salvador Dalí, who viewed the lobster as a representation of the hidden recesses of the human mind and its allure, both forbidden and fascinating.

Schiaparelli, a name inseparable from avant-garde fashion, thrived on the unconventional. Remove audacious elements from its DNA, and it would cease to be the maison it is. Elsa Schiaparelli herself ventured into the world of fashion after drawing inspiration from couturier Paul Poiret, a man whose very essence rejected the notion of “discreet luxury.” Her perpetual rival, Coco Chanel, cheekily dubbed her the “artist who tailors.” Elsa possessed a unique and eccentric taste, a taste that modern haute couture still associates with opulence. However, her journey commenced elsewhere.

She inaugurated her foray into the fashion world with “Pour le sport,” her first atelier located at 4 Rue de la Paix. Here, she sold hand-knitted golf attire, meticulously crafted by Armenian artisans, featuring oversized trompe-l’œil bows as their defining feature. In time, these bows evolved into pierced hearts, sailor tattoos, and X-ray-inspired patterns that replicated the contours of bones. These were symbolic pieces whose designs, as Marisa Berenson recounts in her memoir “Momenti intimi,” sought to mimic the primitive drawings of prehistoric children.

Daniel Roseberry, the creative visionary at the helm of the Maison since 2019, uses this rich legacy as the cornerstone for his reimagined Elsa. He builds upon Elsa’s original concept of “ready-to-wear immediately,” a concept that catapulted her to fame and established her as a creator capable of transforming even the most utilitarian garments into extraordinary objets d’art, capable of arousing desire and sparking conversations.

So, what sparks the imagination today? Is it the daring concept of pilfered boxer shorts, hinting at concealed secrets through a keyhole, playfully matched with jingling knitted tops and stretch skirts adorned with charms and safety pins? Or perhaps it’s the pinstriped suit, complete with a ribbon-trimmed blazer, an iconic Schiaparelli creation that served as the muse for the silhouette of the iconic Shocking perfume bottle, inspired by the legendary Mae West?

“I’ve come to realize that the more familiar a garment is – a crisp white shirt, a flowing trench coat, a sleek black smoking jacket – the more delightful it is to rediscover it through the prism of the Maison’s codes, which often reveal themselves as hidden treasures,” shares Daniel Roseberry. With this insight, he unveils Schiaparelli’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection, a skillfully updated lexicon from the 1930s.

It’s a seamless fusion of classic French chic interwoven with the streamlined practicality and sophistication quintessentially American. This harmonious blend permeates the entire collection, from the pastel jacket, adorned with exquisite body jewelry, to the audacious black jacket confidently worn sans pants and bedecked with chains, crystals, and pop-inspired embellishments, including a dramatic splash of glossy red enamel.

And then there are the artfully draped dresses, featuring fringed sleeves, destined to be paired with anthropomorphic boots boasting oversized platforms. Tweed jackets, stylishly matched with oversized denim, stand beside the lobster-themed skirt-and-shirt ensemble, while sailor-inspired outfits feature asymmetric jackets. A silk satin slip dress with sculpted cups or a jumpsuit boasting oversized pants and strategically placed cut-out detailing complete this captivating collection.

The color palette remains faithful to the essentials: black, ecru, white, with subtle hints of red and dusty shades. These foundational hues serve as the perfect canvas for the Maison’s iconic imagery, both historical and contemporary, brought to life through jewelry, embroidery, and distinctive applications. Even a long denim dress bearing the Schiaparelli insignia transforms into a captivating piece of still life, evoking the essence of tobacco.

Amidst the proliferation of keyhole décolletés and trompe-l’œil toe fingers, a fresh footwear trend emerges – a sneaker featuring a golden-tipped toe, perfectly encapsulating the spirit of the collection. It effortlessly marries the fantasy of haute couture with a metropolitan edge, particularly when paired with a denim duster featuring an architectural collar.

In essence, we present to you Schiaparelli’s ready-to-wear. It’s designed for everyday wear and, dare I say, ‘effortless’? Absolutely. Yet, it’s also designed to make a statement, to draw someone across the room, to become an extraordinary echo of some of our finest couture creations. Elsa did it first. We are doing it once again.

And in a touch of light-heartedness, embodied in the closing look worn by Kendall Jenner (the casting includes industry stalwarts like Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta, and Irina Shayk), there was nothing more than an exquisitely tailored sheath dress, adorned with an abundance of nail tips. After the missteps of garments designed to “break the internet,” Roseberry has once again mastered ready-to-wear that, with wit and artistry, brings Elsa’s surreal world into our everyday lives. And it’s happening all over again in 2024.

Creative Director: Daniel Roseberry

Models: Abby ChampionAfrica GarciaAmber VallettaAngelina KendallAnna LochertAymeline ValadeBibi BreslinEva KomuvesGrace ElizabethImaan HammamIrina ShaykJeanne CadieuKarolina SpakowskiKendall JennerKeny SalgadoLena HardtLina ZhangLiu WenLiv WaltersMagdalena FrackowiakMaggie MaurerMalika LoubackMary UkechMaty FallMika SchneiderMila van EetenMona TougaardNikki VrekicPenelope TernesRania BenchegraRejoice ChuolRoos AbelsShalom HarlowTanya ChurbanovaTanya DiagilevaWali