The recent Haute Couture and Men’s Fashion Weeks have brought to light several key trends that are revolutionizing the fashion industry. These events have witnessed an evolution in the way shows are presented, a notable emphasis on inclusivity and diverse casting, and the emergence of various captivating themes.

One of the most significant trends observed during the latest fashion weeks is the increased number of menswear shows. Compared to the previous season, there was a slight rise in the number of physical shows, with a total of 47 shows dedicated to Fall/Winter 2022 collections. Interestingly, 22 of these presentations showcased both menswear and womenswear, despite being part of the men’s fashion weeks. Paris alone hosted 17 physical fashion shows, along with 29 in-person presentations and 30 digital-only events. In total, Paris, London, and Milan collectively presented 100 shows during this season, highlighting the growing importance of menswear.

According to a report by fashion search engine Tagwalk, the most in-demand brands during this period were largely predictable considering the context. Kenzo secured the top spot on the list, fueled by the debut of the brand’s new Japanese designer, Nigo, and the presence of renowned artist Kanye West at the show. Louis Vuitton ranked second, presenting an emotionally charged show displaying the final collection by the late Virgil Abloh. The joint creative effort of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took the third spot, with their show featuring iconic actors Jeff Goldblum and Kyle MacLachlan. This trend of casting older models was also noticeable in other shows, including Y/Project and Yohji Yamamoto.

In terms of Haute Couture, the brands that generated the most attention were Christian Dior, Chanel, Valentino, and Schiaparelli. These prestigious fashion houses dominated in terms of online searches, illustrating their significant influence and unwavering popularity within the industry. Daniel Roseberry’s exceptional Dadaist collections for Schiaparelli received high praise, as they showcased an innovative reimagining of the maison’s origins. Furthermore, Jean Paul Gaultier’s show enjoyed considerable success due to his artistic collaborations with fellow designers.

Inclusivity emerged as a pivotal objective for many designers this season. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino show boasted a diverse cast of models, including men and older women, thus reflecting a new standard of beauty. Other designers, such as Prada and AMI, also featured actresses in their shows, effectively increasing the diversity on the runway. This push for inclusivity was further apparent in the makeup and accessories used to complement the looks.

Regarding menswear trends, French fashion trend forecaster Heuritech identified the “New Age explorer” style as a prominent theme. Brands like Hermès, Brunello Cucinelli, and Isabel Marant expertly blended vintage outdoor references with a futuristic vision of contemporary sportswear, resulting in a highly sought-after aesthetic. Bright colors and a sense of absurd humor were also prevalent in shows such as Loewe and Bluemarble, highlighting an irreverent and youth-oriented style.

In terms of body trends, the classic dandy style stood out as a recurring theme, characterized by the abundant use of fur, leather, turtlenecks, and layering. Masculinity was explored through the incorporation of feminine elements, particularly in accessories such as “Mary Jane” shoes, skinny scarves, and choker necklaces. Faux fur coats were highly coveted, while pinstriped looks experienced a decline compared to the previous season. Ski-inspired ensembles and the timeless “preppy” style also made appearances in several collections.

There was also a noticeable duality surrounding body trends, with some looks featuring trompe l’oeil prints of the naked human body, as seen in shows by Rick Owens and Loewe. On the other hand, the balaclava emerged as the accessory of the season, being featured in a total of 20 shows. The beret, made popular by the Netflix series “Emily in Paris,” made a more modest comeback, appearing in only five shows.

Overall, these fashion weeks have showcased a wide range of trends and themes that play significant roles in shaping the fashion industry. From diverse casting choices to an emphasis on inclusivity and the exploration of different styles, designers are continuously pushing boundaries and redefining what is considered fashionable. As London Fashion Week approaches, it will be intriguing to witness how these trends will further evolve and influence the future of fashion.

Useful links:
1. Vogue – Top Style Trends for Fall 2022
2. Business of Fashion – Fashion Stories to Tell Through Men’s Fashion