Koché, the Parisian street couture brand led by Christelle Kocher, has recently undergone significant changes to its business model. Previously, the brand’s ready-to-wear collections were managed under license by Italian fashion group OTB. However, Koché has now taken direct control of both production and distribution, resulting in a reorganization of the company and the recruitment of new management. Starting from the Spring/Summer 2024 season, the label plans to produce its collections in-house.

The collaboration between Koché and OTB began in 2019 when OTB President Renzo Rosso mentored Kocher after she won the ANDAM Prize. During this period, Koché signed a licensing agreement with OTB’s manufacturing arm, Staff International, which was responsible for the development, production, and distribution of the brand’s collections. However, with the Fall/Winter 2023-24 season, this partnership came to an end, leading Koché to forge a new path.

Taking control of the production and commercialization of its collections has led to a change in the presentation schedule for Koché. The brand will now showcase its womenswear and menswear collections earlier in the season, specifically during Paris Fashion Week Men.

This new chapter for Koché began in June with a co-ed show held near the river Seine, featuring a noticeable design shift. Kocher, who is also the creative director of Parisian feather artisan Lemarié (owned by Chanel), has moved away from the street couture aesthetic and embraced a “more serene fashion vision.” The new collections feature pared-down yet sophisticated designs.

To support this revamped strategy, Koché brought on board Rajat Kumar as the managing director in June. Kumar previously held a merchandising position at Ami Paris. Additionally, the brand enlisted Guillaume Lambert, the founder of accessories brand Aesther Ekme, as a consultant. The label is also upgrading its digital communication and e-shop, temporarily taking the e-commerce platform offline during this transformation.

Christelle Kocher, the driving force behind Koché, has extensive experience in luxury fashion, having worked at renowned labels such as Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, and Chloé. She founded Koché in 2015 and presented the brand’s first collection in Paris later that year. From the start, Kocher positioned the label as a street-sportswear, multi-ethnic luxury brand, collaborating with renowned names like Puma, Nike, Converse, and football clubs like AC Milan and PSG. Currently, Koché is distributed through approximately 40 e-tailers and multibrand retailers worldwide.

With the direct control of production and distribution, Koché aims to further develop and establish its unique vision within the fashion industry. By focusing on a more serene fashion vision and enhancing digital communication, the label is embarking on an exciting new chapter of growth and creativity. Fashion enthusiasts can anticipate the upcoming collections to showcase Koché’s distinctive blend of street couture and luxury aesthetics.

Useful links:
1. Article on Business of Fashion
2. Vogue UK article on Koché’s changes